Help Centre

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  1. What is the best type of wood to use? 13/12/2019

    A number of things should be considered when using wood for heating.  An understanding of the various types of wood fuel that is available including its advantages and limitations, and it is essential to know how to light and maintain a good fire.

    Wood fuel ranges from soft woods like pine, to hardwoods like manuka. But whatever wood is chosen, the key to a successful fire is to ensure the fuel is as 'Dry', or as 'Seasoned', as possible.

    Green wood can hold up to its own weight in moisture and sap and it takes time to get rid of this.

    While surface water does not really matter because that will evaporate quickly, it is important to reduce the sap levels within the cell structure of the wood itself. Softwoods will season quite quickly, in about 6 to 12 months, but it can take for 18 months to 2 years for hardwoods such as Manuka to dry to an acceptable level.

     

    Most woods make suitable fuel, pine is common and good its high resin content and loose cellular structure means it burns faster than some others, so be prepared to make more trips to the wood shed. Macarocarpa and gum are also excellent fuels although marcarocarpa tends to spit and spark more than a lot of other fuels and in some appliances this may cause servicing problems because of fly ash.

    It is suggested avoiding native timber for fuel, unless it becomes available through demolition or natural attrition. Manuka though, is considered a nuisance timber in some areas of New Zealand, and could be used for fuel. It is indeed good fuel - provided it is dry - but remember, drying Manuka will take a long time.

    If you knock two pieces of seemingly dry wood together if it "rings" rather than "thuds" it is likely to be dry, regular use of a moisture meter will ensure you know just how dry your wood fuel is.  However simply because a piece of wood is dry on the outside, it doesn't mean that it is dry enough to burn. Conversely, even if the outside is wet, if it is seasoned properly, it will often burn beautifully. The drier the wood, the cleaner the burn, the less likely is creosote formation and unburnt smoke being exhausted from the flue.

    Place a piece of timber on a good fire base if three sides are burning within 15 minutes, the fuel can be considered to be "dry."

  2. Can I install a second hand wood burner? 13/12/2019

    We recommend you discuss your plan to install a second-hand woodburner with your local city or district council or the unitary authority in your area before purchasing the woodburner. There are factors in addition to the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality that these agencies need to consider before permitting the installation of a second-hand woodburner. 

     

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality

     

     

  3. Why is the door glass small? 13/12/2019

    Big door glass = big waste of heat

    Glass is a very poor insulator, which is not ideal when it comes to wood fires!

    The original Pyroclassic fire did not even have a glass as the scientists wanted the fire to be as efficient as possible. Over time, consumers expressed their desire for a window into the fire which has resulted in the glass getting larger with each version.

    The Pyroclassic IV has the largest door glass that can be fitted to the front of the fire as the glass retaining strips fit just inside the front opening of the fire chamber.

  4. How much does it cost? 13/12/2019

    To download the RRP price list of our Pyroclassic wood fire and accessories, click HERE. 

  5. Why is the door lock hard to operate? 13/12/2019

    Apply a small amount of high temperature grease to the thread (grease with graphite or molybdenum disulphide only).

    This could be because you are over tightening the door spindle thread. The Pyroclassic IV door seals with minimum pressure. Do not over-tighten as this shortens the life of the door handle gasket life.

     

     

  6. What do I do if one of my side panels are shaking/rattling when the fire is going? 13/12/2019

    Because of the panels being interchangeable and not permanently fixed to the fire there is a small chance that occasionally a panel may rattle slightly in its channel, this is due to the small gap between the coloured panel and the channel which allows the panel to move ever so slightly.

    If this occurs then it can be remedied by removing the panel and putting a slight curve across the panel (you are only wanting to add a total of around 1mm - 2mm of curve) by flexing it from top to bottom. The easiest way to do this is to lie the panel half on a flat surface and apply weight to the bottom section on the surface and also to the top section hanging off the side. This will create a slight curve in the panel. Please note: You shouldn't bend it far enough to crease the panel or have any visible curve to it. This very small relief in the panel will mean that it sits tighter against both sides of the inside of the channel section and eliminates the rattle.

  7. Our flue pipe is showing signs of going brown, is this normal? 13/12/2019

    The flue pipes will change colour depending on how hot they have been. Like all metals, when exposed to the heat they go through a process called tempering or metallurgy which is explained in more detail here.

    If there are any oil deposits like fingerprints etc. on the pipes then these can show up once they have been heat cycled and are much harder to remove. Any time the flue is touched it is worth following our instructions and have them wiped down with some methylated spirits.

    If there is a concentrated spot of heat like a ring around the pipe then this is an indication of a possible internal flue fire. If this is the case then a sweep would be recommended.

     

     

  8. What can I do if my wetback develops a thick coating on it? 13/12/2019

    The wetback can develop a coating of crusty creosote when the wood fuel is not being burnt in the most efficient way. Firewood can play a major role in the performance of a wood fire. The species is part of the picture but the most significant thing is that whatever the type of wood it must be well seasoned and dry. Best performance cannot be achieved without the best fuel.

    So back to the question...

    Burning wood at low temperature causes incomplete combustion of the oils in the wood, which are off-gassed as volatiles in the smoke. As the smoke rises through the chimney it cools, causing water, carbon, and volatiles to condense on the interior surfaces of the chimney flue. The black oily residue that builds up is referred to as creosote, which is similar in composition to the commercial products by the same name, but with a higher content of carbon black. Over the course of a season, creosote deposits can become several inches thick. This creates a compounding problem, because the creosote deposits reduce the draft (airflow through the flue) which increases the probability the wood fire is not getting enough air to burn at high temperature. Since creosote is highly combustible, a thick accumulation creates a fire hazard. If a hot fire is built in the stove or fireplace and the air control left wide open, this may allow hot oxygen into the chimney where it comes in contact with the creosote which then ignites—causing a flue fire.

    The easiest way to clean the flue is by placing a deep baking tray or similar under the base of the flue and sweep the flue down into this. This stops all the debris from falling into the top chamber and requiring vacuuming out. The build-up around the wetback is best removed by hand and the rest can be carefully removed by a vacuum cleaner.

    The wetback can be knocked out of alignment if it is moved when the creosote is being cleaned off. This can cause the constant rise to be knocked out of alignment and can result in water hammer developing in the system so be careful. The wetback can develop a coating of crusty creosote when the wood fuel is not being burnt in the most efficient way. Firewood can play a major role in the performance of a wood fire. The species is part of the picture but the most significant thing is that whatever the type of wood it must be well seasoned and dry. Best performance cannot be achieved without the best fuel.

  9. Where do I get a building consent? 13/12/2019

    You can get this from your local city council, district council or unitary authority for installations that meet the requirements of the Building Act regulations.

     

    See Council maps and websites for contact details.

     

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality

     

     

  10. Why have Pyroclassic fires dropped from No. 1 on Consumer NZ tests on their last report? 13/12/2019

    Consumer Magazine recently changed the way fires are rated. This has caused some issues across the industry as what were considered the 'best' fires are now not rated near the top...like the Pyroclassic IV. They have changed the weightings of their review to focus more on price for output over emissions and efficiency as they believe this is more in line with what the customer wants.

    This has resulted in a list which is more about heat output for dollars spent rather than which fires actually perform the best. It also makes no provision for servicing costs, warranty duration or expected life of the appliance and its components.

    The statement we have printed in our marketing material - 'Consistently chosen as the top pick for wood fires in all Consumer reviews' refers to the consumer reviews across various formats in NZ, Australia and the UK over the last 30 plus years including true consumer feedback.