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My powdercoating looks worn after cooking?
The top plate of the Pyroclassic is 10mm plate steel which sits directly above the heat of the firebox making it a great surface for cooking on if desired, however as with all cookers, if used, this will leave some evidence of cooking so this is normal to show signs of use. This impact can be reduce with careful choice of how to cook and in what pan or pot, so for baking and roasting fully enclosed containers are ideal, if you are going to be frying and sautéing then this will obviously create more deposits. A good way to minimise the clean-up is to use a large piece of aluminium foil across the top which will stop any spills from marking the fire. The top plate is painted in a special Senotherm paint which can withstand very high temperatures, this allows it to be able to ‘burn off’ most spills and marks, however the powdercoated panels are not heated to the same level and so would not be able to self-clean like the top plate, these panels are therefore powdercoated to allow a smarter look in a wide range of colours.
Refuelling onto a low firebed
The wood fuel inside a Pyroclassic® IV fire burns best on a thin bed of ash and hot coals. However, if there is insufficient burning material in the fire bed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke emission can occur. Refueling must be carried out onto a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash so that the new fuel charge will ignite in a reasonable period, add suitable kindling if necessary. If a new fuel load is left without suitable ignition then a buildup of unburnt volatile gases can occur, this can cause the unit to be put under stress when these gases eventually do combust causing a possible internal explosion. Always ensure adequate combustion and ignition of fuel and use the Turboslide as instructed.
How do I fix down draft?
Download our down draft troubleshooting tips HERE.
How much does it cost?
To download the RRP price list of our Pyroclassic wood fire and accessories, click HERE.
How do I use my re-usable fire starters?
Place the soaked fire starter in the front of the fire chamber just underneath the front of your kindling. When the fire has started use tongs to remove it and place somewhere safe to cool down. When the fire starter is cold, place into a jar of methylated spirits for storage.
- NEVER leave methylated spirits near the lit fire
- NEVER soak a hot fire starter in methylated spirits
- NEVER squirt spirits or any liquid fuels directly into the fire chamber
When and how should I clean the flue?
Pyroclassic Fires are renowned for burning very cleanly when dry fuel is used but you should still always clean your flue once a year. This is often a requirement for many insurance companies.
Keeping your flue pipes clean will help eliminate the risk of a flue fire. Your flue is also a great indication of how your wood fuel is performing. If the pipes are clean then the wood is good, if the pipes are filling up with carbon, creosote and tar deposits then you may need to revisit the operating instructions and refresh yourself with how to create a cleaner burning fire.
The easiest way to clean the flue is by placing a deep baking tray or similar under the base of the flue and sweep the flue down into this, this stops all the debris from falling into the top chamber and requiring vacuuming out. Sweeping the flue into the top chamber is never a good idea as it can restrict the flow of gasses from the primary fire chamber and cause your fire to perform poorly.
To clean the top chamber and wetback, you will need to remove the top plate (it just lifts off) and clean out the top chamber of soot and creosote. Take care not to remove any of the Kaowool lining during cleaning and ensure that the gasket is all intact before replacing the top plate. Support the flue with a frame made of wood so you can easily remove the top plate.
The build-up around the wetback is best removed by hand. The wetback can be knocked out of alignment if it is moved when the creosote is being cleaned off so be careful as this can cause the constant rise to be knocked out of alignment and can result in water hammer developing in the system.
Can I put a natural tile on the wall instead of the wall screens? Does this comply with the 'non combustible wall' requirements?
Any non-combustible mineral board that is directly fixed to a combustible material like timber immediately loses its non-combustible qualities and therefore the full clearances must be applied. If this board were to be packed 25mm off the combustible material underneath and then ventilated top and bottom with 25mm air gaps then this would become a non-combustible wall covering. This can be covered with any other non-combustible material you like such as tiles etc.
As a note of caution please be aware that Fireline Gib is not a non-combustible wall covering.
Can you configure the flue to have an offset so it goes out the wall behind the fire rather than the roof?
Yes, offset bends are available for the flue systems. The best option would be to speak with a local installer who can give you specific advice about a flue system to suit your home.
Do note that a general rule of thumb is to try and avoid having any offsets in the first length of flue pipe, no more than a 45 degree angle and no more than 600mm centre to centre of the offset. Offsets do require more maintenance with cleaning etc. and can have adverse effects on the fires performance versus a typical vertical flue.
What proportion of heat comes from the back of the fire and the flue in comparison to the front and sides?
This is a difficult question to answer. Most of the radiant heat from the fire comes from the top plate (more front than back) and the door area. The cooler convection heat comes off the extruded coloured panels around the sides and the front of the fire.
By comparison, the heat from the rear of the unit is much less than that from the other sides but it can still get to quite a temperature around that area. What that temperature is can vary depending on what the fire is doing, it is almost never a static output.
My fire isn’t going like it used to and performs like the flue is blocked even after cleaning. What do I do?
Remove the front panel by sliding it up. If there’s a white felt material (gasket), remove this and put back front panel.
Reason for removal: The gasket is present in Pyro models pre 2015. It was initially there to insulate the bolt but we found it restricted airflow as it tore and clogged the primary air intakes causing the fire to be starved of air.
If the gasket is not there and you are still experiencing these same issues then it is likely to be one of these three reasons:
1) Use of wet or unseasoned fuel - test your wood with a moisture meter by splitting a log in two and spiking the centre. If wood is above 20% this is not ideal and you should look at getting some drier wood.
2) Flue height - it could be a case of the flue not getting enough draw so it needs to be extended to create more positive draw. Every house is different, some houses require 600mm, some 1200mm. This depends on roof configuration and external factors like neighbouring buildings, trees, cliffs & wind.
3) Operation - you may be unintentionally not allowing the cylinder to get hot enough. Leave the Turboslide open for 30-45 minutes on initial start-up and open again for approximately 5-10 minutes after refuelling to ensure the new fuel has ignited and for the cylinder to maintain an optimum temperature.